JUN Slotted Rotors, Tested!

 I recently swapped my front rotors, in case you guys been wondering what I've been up to.

Below is my brake setup :

Front Discs - I** Front Slotted/Drilled Rotors
Front Pads  - EBC Greenstuff
Rear Discs - OEM
Rear Pads - EBC Ultimax(Black)


The above is a decent recipe for good braking, heavy braking and late braking.


THIS, was what happened to the previous rotors I had. Look at the cracks. The steering wheel also judders already upon hard braking.
 
The best part? This is the second set of the same brand of disc I have. Cracked, two pairs within three months.




This is a picture of the new pair, made by JUN Malaysia under the authority of JUN Japan. A tad pricey if you ask me.

 The thickness of this pair is equivalent to OEM thickness. Hopefully it's material is as robust.

 Installed

 Close-up shot, after installation.

They even have so-called indicators!

















I've been driving these for a week, at times braking till the discs glow red. Discs generally start glowing at about 600-700Degrees Celcius. From a fine science point of view, the discs have always been glowing, but not to our eyes till the said temperature. Infrared, nuff said.

I've been braking hard, excessively hard when necessary as I do daily high speed travels back home every night and these discs are surprisingly still looking as new as when it was just installed. I do not have a picture of it yet.

These have yet to fail me. I have a good feeling about this particular pair as the overall built quality is good. Never again, I will run on a pair of cross drilled discs and they crack over everyday use. Kindly google up on the reasons of metal expansion and yada yada as it will be another long grandfather story.

From the above chart, these rotors are known to cool the pads efficienly which I have no proof if it is true or not. Pads recovery aside, but from my personal knowledge, only cross drilled rotors are capable of cooling them pads down faster than OEM discs. Slots are mainly to remove green gasses when pads are new. Green gasses are produced when pads are new, and when they have to be put to immediate use without running/bedding in on track; hence, "FOR RACE USE ONLY" written on some cross drilled and slotted rotors.




The Setup 

Okay, a little bit on my setup. The brakes have never faded before ever since I ran on EBCs. I two different known famous local brands on the Charade and they fade easily, some worse than OEM. Recovery wise, they don't recover that fast either; not as fast as EBC.

Above pics were taken during Christmas Eve, during the big flood in Kuantan. I paid about 400bucks for the front pair of pads. Damn. Back to the setup elaboration, this setup does not fade on the way down from Genting. Farby the best pads I've ever used in my life, after seven years of running on my high powered pocket rocket. Hong and Kenneth are also running on EBC and have never complained as much as they make a living by eating brake pads and rotors for lunch. Never fade, never fade, glowing red, glowing fucking red, never fade! Even lotus cars on track are running on the Yellowstuff pads. The greenstuff recovers pretty fast, almost immediately.

Most aftermarket pads and rotors are not tested according to certain SOP and may or may not perform differently on your car. I very well remember that I took on a tuned Golf from Summit to Awan Besar toll on Kesas and drove like there was no tomorrow. Neither one of us could overtake the other. By the time I approached the toll, I hadn't any brakes left :(. It didn't recover either in terms of fade.

You guys just have to be careful on picking the right brands. As for twin pots in front, four pot or six pots, I'm not sure if it is necessary as your braking system is only to the point of tire locking. Having too much braking power in front affects the amount of effort needed for the rear brakes to work efficiently. When the front is upgraded, hopefully the rear is given the right upgrade as well. Tests can be done with a Drift Box and weights while braking :).

As for brake fluid? Use whatever that suits you. If your dot4 doesn't boil, stay with dot4 :). Steel braided hoses are also recommended if you current ones are worn and old.

Till date, the front pads are six months old and I still have approximately 50% pads left. So far so good, thumbs up!




Back to the JUN Rotors, you can get them from me and the price list is as per below :

Model
PERODUA MYVI 2005-2011 RM599
PERODUA KENARI 2000-2011 RM599

PROTON WIRA 1.6/1.8 1995-1998 RM599
PROTON PUTRA 1997-2000 RM599
PROTON GTI 1999-2002 RM599
PROTON WAJA 2003-2006 RM699
PROTON WAJA CAMPRO 2007-2011 RM699
PROTON PERDANA 1995-1999 RM699
PROTON PERDANA V6 1999-2011 RM699


Model
TOYOTA VIOS (NCP42) 2003-2007 RM699
TOYOTA VIOS (NCP93) (E & J SPEC) 2008-2011 RM699


Model
MITSUBISHI LANCER (CY4A) 1999-2011 RM899
PROTON INSPIRA (GS41) 2010-2011 RM899
PROTON INSPIRA (GS41) 2010-2011 RM899


Model
SUZUKI SWIFT(non sport) 2006-2011 RM799


Model
HONDA CIVIC (EK4) 2/4DOOR 1996-2000 RM699
HONDA CIVIC (EG9) 4DOOR 1992-1995 RM699
HONDA CIVIC (EG6) 2DOOR 1992-1995 RM699
HONDA INTEGRA (DC2) 4X100 PCD 1992-1996 RM699
HONDA CIVIC (S5A) ES 1.7 2001-2003 RM699
HONDA CIVIC (S5G) ES 2.0 2003-2005 RM699


Model
HONDA CIVIC (SNA) FD 1.8 2006-2011 RM899
HONDA CIVIC (SNA) FD 2.0 2006-2011 RM899
HONDA ACCORD (SDA) CM5 2003-2007 RM899
HONDA ACCORD (SDA) CM5 2003-2007 RM899
HONDA STREAM RN1/3/5 2001-2006 RM899


Model
HONDA JAZZ (SAA) MALAYSIA MODEL 2003-2008 RM699
HONDA FIT (GE) JAPAN MODEL 2003-2008 RM699
HONDA CITY (SEL) 2003-2009 RM699


Model
TOYOTA CAMRY (ACV40) 2008-2011 RM999
TOYOTA CAMRY (ACV40) 2008-2011 RM999


Kindly sms me at 012-9096996 for further enquiries on your braking system. Only above models available.